Oporto - The Old City

We had been expecting the weather to be a lot warmer in Portugal, however it appears that the cold front has moved in and it was definitely NOT shorts weather!

We began the day walking down to the old station - Sao Bento - to organise our tickets to Tui.  Our AirBnB is in an area close to the old quarter and the walk down the hill took us past many old churches and buildings.

                

Of course the retail opportunities beckoned and it took us quite some time to find the station.  It has a spectacular interior and was very busy with both tourists and regular metro travellers.

It took some time for us to work out where the information window was - behind a glass door, with people having to queue outside as only one at a time was allowed in.  The attendant had only halting english but he provided us with a timetable that we could understand!  Next we had to take a ticket in order to queue to purchase our tickets to Valença.  There are only 2 trains to Tui each day and it is fairly easy to catch a cab across the bridge into Tui.

Having purchased our tickets, we headed for a coffee shop before exploring further.  Our first stop was the cathedral, where a number of the Portuguese Camino walkers start.  We found the way mark for the walk and followed the way the pilgrims would take out of the city.  

Eventually we deviated from the pilgrim's path and headed for the gardens that housed the Crystal Palace.  Built in the 19th century, the palace was demolished in 1956 and replaced by the Pavilhao Rosa Mota.  This pavilion now hosts Porto's major sporting and entertainment events.  The gardens remain as they were originally planned by Emille David to complement the Palace.  We enjoyed wandering the paths and particularly the views out to the Duoro River.

We charted a route back to our accommodation through the art area and the night spot, enjoying the displays of art and unexpected shops that popped up between the derelict and deserted buildings.  One was selling clothes made from recycled fabrics - we liked the hats made from old jeans - and another was selling homemade jams and preserves.

It is clear that Porto was a city of great opulence at one stage - the buildings are very grand and the exterior tiles are beautiful.  Unfortunately everything is very run down and many of the buildings are now covered in graffiti. 

        

   

A Travel Day

We were timetabled to leave the pensione at 7.00am so helped ourselves to a makeshift breakfast at about 6.30am so we could be ready.  We waited in vain and at 7.30am sought out one of the kitchen staff to see what had happened.  it appeared that the lady from Badia who was to collect us on her way to Venice had driven straight past!

After some rearranging, we were on our way with George, the area manager who was driving his brother and sister-in-law back to the airport.  George and his wife Emma both work for Colette's and Emma had recently had baby Luca at the Badia hospital.

We were well within in time for our TAP flight initially to Lisbon and then to Oporto.  The planes were small and lower flying so we were able to see much of the terrain as we flew.  Both Lisbon and Oporto are sprawling cities with most of the buildings covered in orange-tiled roofs.

The instructions to our AirBnB in Oporto were excellent and with only one change of metro line, we took the lift to a park right opposite our front door!  We settled ourselves in to the apartment - a very spacious old ground floor place with a back garden.

 

An early evening walk to the supermarket allowed us to get our bearings as well as the makings of a lovely salad for dinner.

We spent the evening sorting clothes for washing and did our first load.  We had been looking forward to the washing machine!

Our last walk in the Dolomites

Our final walking day dawned cool and overcast.  We decided that we would join the guided walk to the Pinnacles.  Unfortunately I left my camera behind, so the photos attached are courtesy of the other girls.

Robbie decided to take advantage of the opportunity for a painting lesson with the resident artist.  She headed up to Utia la Brancia for a day of art.

Our bus trip took us to the Campolongo Pass - 1875m - and from there we set off on a steep climb up to the Pinnacles.  This was by far the most challenging day for me as we reached a height of 2238m before beginning our descent.

As we climbed, the weather began to close in and by the time we had reached our lunch stop at Lake Boe, we were shrouded in cloud.

Fortunately the weather held out and we began our very steep descent back to Corvara.  Initially the route took us on a maintenance road, but after some time, we parted company with the others in the group - four firemen and some couples from the UK - as they headed back down into the village and we took a different route that would take us directly back to the pensione.  The final part of the descent was on a steep ski run - beautifully grassed and soft - and by the golf course.

The numbers in our pensione are slowly dwindling as the season is about to close.  Many of the chairlifts and cable cars will stop running tomorrow.  We all sat at one table for dinner tonight.  Caroline, the Manager of the pensione sat with us and explained some of the workings of the organisation.

Colette's have a handshake agreement with the landlord to lease the pensione for each of the seasons. At the end of each season the staff scrub the place from top to toe and return home.  Generally they sign up for a summer and winter season, though many of them have done many more that that.

A Rest Day

Today dawned much cooler than the previous ones and we could see snow on the mountain tops!  It was overcast and threatening rain.

We decided that we would not attempt a walk in what would be cold and slippery conditions and so, on advice from the staff headed towards Brunico, a medieval town in the mountains.

The Castle was first built in 1250 when Bishop Bruno von Kirchberg and Bullenstein decided that his properties needed to be safeguarded.  In 1370 the town was given the freedom to hold weekly markets.  Trade and commerce flourished and in the beginning of the 15th century the first houses were built.  This was the start of the lovely 'Stadtgasse' that we wandered along through the day.  

        

A highlight was the visit to the Speck Museum where we admired the retail display but also found out how it was made.

Being Saturday, the street was bustling, with not only tourists but also the local shoppers.  We really liked the florist and chocolate shop.

           

The town had many churches and we enjoyed the ringing of the bells on the quarter hour - from all the churches with clocks - many of them not synchronised!

  

We also admired the heavy doors

                                        

We chanced across a wedding and listened to a small group of musicians singing the Hallelujah chorus.

Our climb up to the castle was followed by a local slice of pizza.

A trip home on the bus and the steep walk up to our pensione completed our day.

Falzarego Walk

This morning started bright and sunny but deteriorated as time went on into a duller, overcast day.  Perhaps the inclement weather that had been threatening was about to hit us!  Despite this we again packed all our gear and headed up to the Falzarego Pass with Amy and Seb.  It is quite a climb in the bus - 2105m - and the air was cool and crisp when we stepped out.

                        

  remains of the old hospital of the 5th Alpini Brigade

Our walk took us up a very steep section through lightly wooded areas until we reached a ridge from which we could see where the Italians had their camp during the first world war and where the Austrians - on whom they fired - had theirs across the valley.  From June 1915 until October 1917 the Italians and the Austrians fought among the mountains of the Dolomites, with the most intense period between September and November 1917.  The fighting in this area involved both sides trying to break a stalemate by tunnelling and mining the enemy positions.  This was done in the biting cold and required the hand chiselling of rock in many cases.  It is estimated that 60,000 soldiers were killed by avalanches.  As we wound our way along the ridge we had great views to the Italian side of the valley.

As we rounded one of the corners, we came across the ruins of the old hospital of the 5th Alpini Brigade.

This proved to be a great lunch spot.

Following lunch, we headed back down to the pass, travelling through more wooded areas and negotiating the many exposed roots that prevent against erosion.

                   

We headed back to Corvara on the bus, stopping in the village for a hot chocolate and cake at the place recommended by the guides.

After a wander around the village, exploring the few shops, we headed back to the pensione.