We met up with Caitlin early and caught the tram to Taksim Square - it was really three trams - one across the Galata Bridge, then the 'Tunel' an underground funicular that started operating in 1875 and climbs about 60 metres over 550 metres, and finally the old tram up to the Square. Trams stopped running in Istanbul in 1966, however this nostalgic tramway was revived in 1990 using the old rolling stock.
We left Caitlin in Taksim Square and walked up to the Military Museum. The route, along a main street was barricaded off with police 'manning' openings at each block. If you wanted to buy a coffee from any of the shops, you needed to go through the police barricade! The reason for this became obvious as we passed the Hilton Hotel. Istanbul was hosting a World Energy Conference and Vladimir Putin was one of the main speakers! We continued on to the Museum, which when we arrived was quite empty. It was particularly well curated and we liked the early chambers which outlined the history of the Turkish people and their migrations across Europe and Asia. We visited Ataturk's chamber, but were surprised that it provided little information about his life and career but a lot about his clothes and living style!
Finishing at the museum, we caught up with Caitlin and walked through the Taksim Square shopping network back to the tram stop at the Bridge and on to the Blue Mosque. Building began over the site of the ancient Roman hippodrome in 1609 and finished 7 years later. The mosque is known for its six minarets - most have either 4, 2 or 1 - which caused some consternation as the Haram Mosque at Mecca - the holiest in the world - also had six minarets. The sultan building the Blue Mosque, Sultan Ahmet I, solved this problem by sending his architect to Mecca to add a seventh minaret there!
As this is a working mosque, we needed to ensure that we were dressed appropriately to enter. The building is lit by 260 windows which were originally of 17th century stained glass, however this has long gone and been replaced. It is the blue tiles of the mosaics covering the cascading domed ceiling that give the mosque its 'blue' name.
From here we walked across the square to the Hagia Sophia, which is now a museum but has, since 537AD, been an Orthodox Cathedral; Catholic Cathedral; a Mosque and, since 1935, a museum. Until the construction of the Blue Mosque, it was the main centre of worship in Istanbul. Most famous for its huge dome, the Hagia Sophia is said to have changed the face of Byzantine architecture and served as the inspiration for many other Ottoman mosques.
In the same complex are five tombs housing the sarcophagi of Ottoman sultans and their family members. We visited the tomb of Sultan Selim II and were enthralled by the mosaics as well as the inlaid mother of pearl designs.
Across the road, we entered the Basilica Cistern, the largest of several hundred cisterns that lie beneath Istanbul. Ancient texts indicate that it was built by about 7000 slaves and provided a water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople, the Topkapi Palace and into modern times. Capable of holding 80,000 cubic metres of water, the ceiling is supported by 336 columns of mostly Ionic and Corinthian style.
After our day of wandering, we retired for a well-earned rest before having dinner at one of the many restaurants near our hotel.
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