Thursday 13 October 2016

Kusadasi and Ephesus

Having done a bit of research, we decided to catch a taxi to Ephesus and guide ourselves around the site.  The information we could find indicated that it would take a couple of hours but advised visitors to be prepared for heat, crowds and no shade.  Fortunately this morning there were no cruise boats at the terminal!

We took the taxi, with the driver dropping us at the top gate, where there were a few traders who wanted to sell us books and trinkets.  Fortunately a large bus full of more likely looking prospects arrived and we were able to make a hasty getaway and enter the site.


Built in the 10th century BC, it really flourished in Roman times when, with a population of 33,000 to 56,000 it was the third largest city of Roman Asia Minor.  Initially built on the coast, Ephesus had a natural harbour and so became a thriving commercial centre.  However over time, the Kayster River silted up the harbour and now the ruins are a good 5 kilometres from the sea.  There were a number of settlements in the area, each ruined over time by wars and earthquakes and while some rebuilding took place, much remained in ruins.  The part we visited were the ruins from Roman times.



Some of the noted buildings of the Roman time were the Library of Celsus, - the third largest in the empire and home to 12,000 scrolls.  Built about 120AD, the interior was destroyed by earthquake (or possibly fire after a Goth invasion) in 262AD and the facade destroyed by earthquake in the 10th or 11th century.  The facade was rebuilt by archaeologists in the 1970s.


The open air theatre was first constructed in the 3rd century BC but enlarged to seat 25,000 in the Roman period.  Initially for theatrical performances, it was also used for political and philosophical debates and in later times for gladiatorial competitions.



Ephesus was also famed for its baths, having one of the most advanced aqueduct systems in the ancient world.



The old Agora (market) is now a collecting place for ruins - it must be an absolute nightmare for the archaeologists who unearth these columns (or parts thereof) and pieces of friezes; blocks of marble etc as they try to decide to which building they belong and what will be done with them.



After about 2 hours we found ourselves at the lower gate where there are many more traders politely engaging visitors in conversation before inviting them to visit their stalls displaying anything from jewellery to clothes to souvenirs and trinkets!

We decided to walk out to the main road and catch the Dolmus back to Kusadasi.  Just as we reached the road, we heard the familiar 'beep' and sure enough a wave from Michael had the dolmus stopping and waiting for us to cross the road and alight!

We returned to Kusadasi - to a stop unfamiliar to us, however we headed to the sea and soon found ourselves in familiar territory again.

This evening we wandered the old caravanserai (bazaar) area while looking for a place for dinner.  The traders were again touting for business and we headed out of this area and through a local park - much better cared for than some we had seen - to a little shop where we decided to eat.  We could see the lady making our order in the kitchen as we waited.  It was one of our better meals in Turkey.





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